NAD+ in topical skincare: what to ask a supplier

The molecule arrived in cosmetics from longevity research and went straight onto packaging. The question for a supplier is simple: in what form is it added, and what evidence backs that.

NAD+ came into cosmetics from research on cell ageing and quickly found a place on packaging. The acronym looks convincing, yet on its own it tells a buyer almost nothing. Two jars carrying the same wording can differ more than two different product categories do.

Why the molecule alone is not the answer

NAD+ is a large and unstable molecule. Unprotected, it stores poorly and passes the stratum corneum poorly, so formulators almost always work either with precursors or with a delivery system.

Hence the first question: what is actually in the jar. NAD+ itself, a precursor such as nicotinamide riboside, or plain niacinamide dressed up in a deck. Those are three different raw materials at three different prices.

What the word liposomal means

A liposomal form is a way of wrapping an active so that it reaches its target instead of breaking down on the way. The technique is sound and long established.

But the word in a description proves nothing. The meaningful question is: who supplies the liposomal system, is there a technical data sheet for it, and what percentage of active sits inside. If there is no answer, you are looking at marketing copy rather than a technology.

How this affects shelf life and storage

An unstable active usually means stricter requirements for packaging and storage: an airless bottle instead of a jar, protection from light, sometimes a temperature limit in transit.

For a buyer that is a logistics question. A product that must travel under controlled conditions costs more to ship, and it is better to know that before you cost the line, not after the first shipment.

What to request from the manufacturer

The exact INCI name of the raw material and its share in the formula — or at least the order of magnitude, if the company will not disclose the precise figure.

The technical data sheet for the delivery system and the name of its supplier.

Stability data: how long the active holds in this formula and at what temperature.

Transport and storage requirements in writing — you will have to pass them to your freight forwarder and to retail.